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Destination: Austin
Christina Wood
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Austin is the state capital of Texas. (ACVB Photo/ Frederica Georgia) |
If you stopped 10 different people on the streets of Austin and asked them to describe their hometown, you’d be likely to get 10 different responses. One person might point out that Austin is the state capital of Texas; the next will tell you it is the Music Capital of the World.” The city has been described as cosmopolitan, yet unpretentious; it’s high-tech and low-key. Some call it quirky.
The U.S. Census Bureau reports that Austin ranks fifth among the country’s most educated cities, with more than 45% of the population holding at least a college degree. Money magazine says Austin is the “Best Place to Start a Business.” According to Men’s Journal, it is among the very best places to live; Travel + Leisure thinks it is the friendliest. Austin is home to one of the nation’s largest universities, one of the world’s largest retailers of organic foods, and a very, very large colony of bats.
From some people’s perspective, it is a historic city with a bright future. Others see it as a cutting-edge center of innovation with a colorful past. At least everyone can agree on one thing — there’s no place else like Austin.
One for the history books
According to the Texas state office of Economic Development and Tourism, “In 1839, five mounted scouts ranged over a broad area of wilderness seeking a site for a new capital city for the Republic of Texas.” They chose a location on the north bank of the Colorado River where the rich blacklands met scenic hills. At the time, the site was occupied by four families who called the little frontier settlement Waterloo. Government officials renamed the town in honor of Stephen F. Austin, who colonized the first American settlement in Texas. Before the year was out, 50 ox-drawn wagons laden with government archives and furniture made the trek from Houston to the Republic’s modest new capital.
The city got off to a shaky start. As AAA reports in a bit of an understatement, “Growth during Austin’s first decade was sporadic.” Among the deterrents: a Mexican invasion, the threat of American Indian raids, and the unwavering opposition of none other than Sam Houston, the Republic’s first president. In fact, some say, if it hadn’t been for a botched attempt to retrieve the state archives from Austin, Houston might be the state capital today.
It was 1842 and the streets of Austin were virtually deserted. To keep the government out of harm’s way, Houston suggested moving the capital. Actually, it was more than a suggestion. Houston sent the Texas Rangers to Austin to retrieve the government archives. When Austin hotelkeeper Angelina Belle Eberly spotted them, she raised the alarm. The citizens of Austin, who apparently made up in grit and determination what they lacked in numbers, chased the Rangers to Brushy Creek and recovered the documents.
Austin may have been the victor in what was colorfully dubbed the Archive War, but its destiny was far from assured. AAA credits the coming of the railroad and the subsequent founding of the University of Texas in 1883 with securing the city’s success. Founded on 40 acres, the UT campus now encompasses more than 350 acres in downtown Austin. With nearly 50,000 students, UT boasts one of the country’s largest student populations, and it’s recognized nationally for its academic programs. As the home of the Texas Longhorns, reigning NCAA football champions, UT’s athletic programs have also attracted their fair share of attention. According to the Austin Convention and Visitors Bureau (ACVB), “The entire city bleeds burnt orange during fall football season, when more than 80,000 football fans converge on Royal Memorial Stadium for each home game and accompanying tailgate parties.”
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As the home of the Texas Longhorns, reigning NCAA football champions, the University of Texas’s athletic programs have also attracted their fair share of attention. |
Singing a different tune
Austin has clearly outgrown its small-town roots, but it happily maintains the scrappy, independent spirit that assured its survival. These days, you could say that Austin moves to the beat of a different drummer — actually, hundreds of drummers. The city boasts more than 150 live music clubs.
Once known primarily for its country and blues tunes, today Austin’s music scene is as diverse as its ever-growing population. According to the ACVB, “The mix includes the blues at Antone’s, traditional country at Broken Spoke, rock on Sixth Street, and cool jazz in the Warehouse District.” The rock’n’ roll, jazz, and Tejano melodies that now blend with the city’s traditional sound have created a unique musical legacy. “It’s the music of Willie Nelson, Lyle Lovett, The Dixie Chicks, Joe Ely, and thousands of other musicians who play and sing in the myriad clubs, restaurants, and outdoor stages that flourish here,” the ACVB explains.
Of course, it takes a lot of talent to fill all those stages, clubs, and cavernous concert halls. According to the ACVB, the Austin area is home to 1,907 recording artists. More than 50 classical and performing arts groups keep another 1,838 folks busy. The nine music-related university and college programs in the area employ 207 music teachers; the public schools have another 697 on the payroll.
The impact of all that strumming, picking, singing, jamming, practicing, and playing makes music a serious business in Austin. The ACVB reports that the music industry has created more than 12,500 local jobs. According to a study conducted by the city in 2001, the music industry contributed more than $600 million to the local economy, with an additional $11 million rung up in tax revenue.
An estimated $31 million of that total was generated by the South by Southwest Music, Film & Interactive Festival. The annual event, which, according to the ACVB, is Austin’s largest convention, takes center stage each March. This year, more than 27,000 participants registered to take part in seminars, screenings, and workshops, as well as to enjoy the entertainment provided by aspiring musicians and celebrated starts from around the world.
While SXSW, as it is popularly known, is primarily promoted as an industry event, the Austin City Limits Music Festival, an offshoot of the popular PBS series, beckons fans to a down-home celebration of Austin’s musical heritage every September.
If you’re not in the mood for music, you can explore the impressive collection at the Blanton Museum of Art, spend a day hiking along the trails that border Town Lake, or visit the free LBJ Presidential Library and Museum. The library houses 40 million pages of historical documents, a scale replica of the Oval Office, and the presidential limousine used during Lyndon Baines Johnson’s tenure as our 36th president.
“If Austin had an astrological sign,” the ACVB theorizes, “it would undoubtedly be Aquarius.” The Colorado River flows through the heart of the city, creating a 100- mile-long chain of lakes and countless opportunities to enjoy a range of water sports.
Zilker Park is the crown jewel in a network of more than 200 municipal parks. As well as being a favorite venue for outdoor music events, the 360-acre park is home to the Zilker Botanical Gardens and Barton Springs Pool. Artesian springs feed the natural pool, which remains at a constant 68 degrees year round. Adjacent to the park, Umlauf Sculpture Garden remains one of the city’s best-kept secrets. This peaceful sanctuary is a showcase for the work of the late Charles Umlauf, a renowned sculptor who taught at UT, and a reminder of the less hectic pace that once characterized Austin.
Getting to work
Over the past 20 years, according to the ACVB, “the small university town where Willie Nelson sought respite in the 1970s grew into a big city with a glittery skyline and more than 1.2 million people in the metropolitan area.”
“Ever since Michael Dell started selling computers from his University of Texas dorm room, thousands of talented, creative people have started businesses in Austin,” the local Chamber of Commerce reports. Despite all the noise generated by the local music scene, according to Austin-based Angelou Economics Inc., the area’s top industries are government and the university’s education system, high-tech manufacturing, and software and information services. Austin is home to the Dell Computer Corp. and hosts major operations for IBM, Samsung, Freescale, and Advanced Micro Devices. Austin is also headquarters for Whole Foods. With 184 stores spread across North America and the United Kingdom, Whole Foods is among the world’s leading retailers of natural and organic foods.
“Ask CEOs, entrepreneurs, educators, and researchers why the Austin region has stayed hot through more than two decades of business trends, and you’ll hear one common theme - workforce. It’s all about people. Whether polishing semiconductor wafers, coding software, driving a forklift, analyzing financial statements, mapping the next big merger, or breaking ground in the research lab, this region’s greatest resource is its educated, skilled, and adaptable people,” the Chamber of Commerce reports.
“Winged creatures have found the city hospitable as well,” AAA notes. “Austin is home to one of the largest urban bat populations in North America.” Every evening from March through November, thousands of people gather by the Congress Avenue Bridge just before sunset to watch in amazement as an estimated 1.5 million Mexican free-tail bats take to the air. It’s a sight you certainly won’t see just anywhere. Only in Austin.
Christina Wood is a freelance writer.
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